I am looking to build a new sub. My wife was present when my last sub self destructed, therefore it is her fault!!! What I want is a sub that reaches to 16 Hz and can pressurize a room of 2000 cubic + (open to the stairwell to upstairs. I would really like to build it myself. ( I can't help it that my ER18's were such a success.) The cabinet that I would like would be an 'end table' design (approx 20W X 30D X 28H overall dimensions(ish)).
Any ideas that would make my viewing/listening awesome?
My listening is 50/50 music to movie and my budget is around $800 - $1000. I can't afford it until I get the proper approval.....(marriage is a hinderance in some situations :P)
Do you Believe the Truth or Seek it.
Annunaki
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Yes, factor in about $600 for amp/EQ. I think a dual opposed 18" with two Stereo Integrity drivers might be perfect.
$600 for EQ/amp
$~400 for the two drivers
$~1-300 for material costs and finishing depending on how you want to do it.
If your budget doesn't include EQ and amplification then a single driver will bring costs down to budget, but a dual opposed or two subs will fill the space better and provide more even bass response (for two separate subs).
So not for any of the wood or other building materials?
$479 Crest Pro Lite
$150 MiniDSP and plugin
$162+shipping for an 18" SI driver
Total: $791 + shipping for the driver. The great part about this is that you're all setup so that if you choose to purchase another SI driver and build another sub you can use the same amp and miniDSP for the other sub as well.
ARES24 (02-18-2013)
HT: L-C-R Zaph ZDT3.5's | AVR: Denon 4308Ci | Source: HTPC (Radeon 5k series - AMD Sempron 140 - 4TB server) | Sub:Infinity Reference Dual Opposed | Behringer iNuke 3K-DSP
2.0: Mission Statements | Amp: Crown XLS402D | Source: AMD Brazos CPU | 96GB SSD | 4GB | Win7 x64 | E-Mu 1212m PCIe | Tripplite PR-10 DC Power Supply | Mini-box DC to DC ATX
For an amp just grab one of these Behringer NU3000 iNUKE
That's plenty to drive a pair of SIs they don't take a lot of power.
Stereo Integrity | Order Online A pair of the 18s would make great end tables.![]()
Fronts:Madisound RB Kits Rears and Sides: Kef 2001.2, Subwoofer: TC Tiger-1000
Receiver:Onkyo NR-708 Amp: Behringer EP4000 Players: Panasonic BDP-60, Onkyo DX-C390 Projector: Epson 8350 Screen: FAVI PD-HD-92
Funny Quote(s):
That's like trying to get decent sound in a public lavatory.-TLS Guy
Heck, if you've got the cash, go the NSA supercomputer route and use Fluorinert- Adam
A shovel of dirt can stop a flood. -Westom
ARES24 (02-18-2013)
Things you might consider.
If you build a sealed sub, the box build is simpler, but everything else is more complicated. In a sealed design you need a much more expensive driver, with more amp power and need Eq and a high pass filter.
If you choose the right driver and design the cabinet properly you just need a good driver a well designed and built cabinet and a modest amp.
For instance I bet if I modeled this driver it would make a nice ported or ABR sub. The unit is efficient and has pretty much all the T/S parameters in the sweet spot. It is a little short on xmax, but with the sensitivity of this unit it won't matter and I believe would power your space nicely. If you are interested in it, I will model it for you.
I think you would come out well within budget and keep your "Trouble and Strife" happy.
Marantz DV 9600 Oppo BD-83 Marantz AV 8003 Quad current dumping amps X 7 Direct TV HD 20 HD DVR Carter audio workstation RME Fireface 800 Fujitsu 50XHA40 Front left and right Carter dual transmission line studio monitors MK II. Center Carter coaxial transmission line center speaker Rear Carter NFM-1s Center backs Carter dual transmission line studio monitors MK I. My system: - http://mdcarter.smugmug.com/gallery/...27077317_Pufg7
ARES24 (02-18-2013)
That's certainly a great driver and is pretty much equal to the SI driver in performance. The cost is only like 20 dollars more, and you can get it now. A port would need to be a slot port IMO to handle the air. Ricci did get 105 db measured clean at 20 hz sealed with these drivers meaning you can get thx reference ground plane without a port. Either way you should still get an EQ system and measurement of some kind to get the most out of your sub. Minidsp has both for great prices. Personally I prefer simple builds, but I'm not a pro woodworker. I think you'd get more enjoyment out of building a ported end table build.
Fronts:Madisound RB Kits Rears and Sides: Kef 2001.2, Subwoofer: TC Tiger-1000
Receiver:Onkyo NR-708 Amp: Behringer EP4000 Players: Panasonic BDP-60, Onkyo DX-C390 Projector: Epson 8350 Screen: FAVI PD-HD-92
Funny Quote(s):
That's like trying to get decent sound in a public lavatory.-TLS Guy
Heck, if you've got the cash, go the NSA supercomputer route and use Fluorinert- Adam
A shovel of dirt can stop a flood. -Westom
ARES24 (02-18-2013)
Well the wife asked me today if a new sub would be a good anniversary present. I answered honestly, 'Best present ever!' Now we have a more immediate build date
So I guess I am in decision modeor maybe this thread is.
I like the daytons in the now kinda way. I am still interested in a ported design, the build should be more interestingWould I be able to tune the sub to 16-17hz and if so what would the unit size be? or would there be other drawbacks?
The size of units ideally would be 24H * 18W * 32D (endtables)