My Statements Build

[jinjuku]

I'm pretty amazed at how much they don't cost, per se. I think I'm going to try to offload my LSi25s and give these a shot.

Edit: I do, however, think I'm going to go for higher end crossover components than what they used.

While the designers don't think it will do you much good, in the overall scheme of things it's not a large chunk of change given the return you get on the speakers overall.

I justified a $500 router and table building the Statements

[Swerd]

I do, however, think I'm going to go for higher end crossover components than what they used.

If you do, be sure to get the exact size and gauge inductor coils that are specified in Jim Holtz's design. It may be tempting to get fatter wires, but their lower DC resistance will change the overall circuit impedance of the crossover, and change its behavior.

I'm not going to debate the merits of more expensive capacitors or resistors with you. Feel free to spend what you like. It's your project. But be aware that many DIY builders have made serious efforts to determine if "high end" capacitors or resistors make an audible difference. They clearly showed that no one could tell the difference between inexpensive or high end caps and resistors as long as their electronic values were the correct ones.

Good luck with your build. The cabinet may be complex, but according to jinjuku, it's worth it.

[jamie2112]

Damn son,I have been missing all the action being on tour......oh well you did a hell of a job with those bro............

[JimAckley]

If you do, be sure to get the exact size and gauge inductor coils that are specified in Jim Holtz's design. It may be tempting to get fatter wires, but their lower DC resistance will change the overall circuit impedance of the crossover, and change its behavior.

I'm not going to debate the merits of more expensive capacitors or resistors with you. Feel free to spend what you like. It's your project. But be aware that many DIY builders have made serious efforts to determine if "high end" capacitors or resistors make an audible difference. They clearly showed that no one could tell the difference between inexpensive or high end caps and resistors as long as their electronic values were the correct ones.

Good luck with your build. The cabinet may be complex, but according to jinjuku, it's worth it.

I'm not going to get too crazy with the caps/resistors, and have modded enough to know better than to mess with inductors. I'm not talking about going with ClarityCap MR 600v caps or something insane like that. I plan on sprucing up the HF and MF with some slightly nicer parts, e.g. ClarityCap ESA 250v Duelund, etc., but I'll most likely keep the LF circuit the same.

Also, while I'm here I've been meaning to ask: IIRC, the internal volume needs to decrease 20% and the port needs to be tuned 3Hz higher, due to the new non-shielded woofers, correct?

[jinjuku]

Also, while I'm here I've been meaning to ask: IIRC, the internal volume needs to decrease 20% and the port needs to be tuned 3Hz higher, due to the new non-shielded woofers, correct?

Correct. According to Curts web site the Sd on the unshielded drivers is a little lower.

Just take it from the height.

[JimAckley]

Just pulled the trigger on four RS225-8 woofers since they were on special, and grabbed the Dayton WT3 tester + precision scale combo since the scale was "free". I'm not sure if I really need it, but figured it would be fun to at least try out. Worst case, I decide it's useless and send it back, but I'm sure that as I get more and more into the DIY thing, it'll become more useful. (this is where one of you gurus tells me if I'm onto something, or if I'm a moron )

Do you guys think the silver-faced NeoCd3.0 would look good next to the W4s, or should I stay with the black?

Jin, I swear I'll stop highjacking your thread soon I just figured this would be a good place to start with my questions since you've already gone through this whole project.

[jinjuku]

Just pulled the trigger on four RS225-8 woofers since they were on special, and grabbed the Dayton WT3 tester + precision scale combo since the scale was "free". I'm not sure if I really need it, but figured it would be fun to at least try out. Worst case, I decide it's useless and send it back, but I'm sure that as I get more and more into the DIY thing, it'll become more useful. (this is where one of you gurus tells me if I'm onto something, or if I'm a moron )

Do you guys think the silver-faced NeoCd3.0 would look good next to the W4s, or should I stay with the black?

Jin, I swear I'll stop highjacking your thread soon I just figured this would be a good place to start with my questions since you've already gone through this whole project.

I think the silver faced tweets would look nice with the mid's. The woofer tester is nice in instances where you don't know the T/S params of a speaker for sure.

[GranteedEV]

If you do, be sure to get the exact size and gauge inductor coils that are specified in Jim Holtz's design. It may be tempting to get fatter wires, but their lower DC resistance will change the overall circuit impedance of the crossover, and change its behavior.

Yes, however it's possible the 12 or 10awg equivalent air core has the same dc resistance.