Can this binding post be fixed on my speaker?

[chemist323]

Hello everyone, I'm new to the forum and have been reading tons of posts over the past couple of days instead of my med school books (audioholics forum much more interesting!). I'm definitely a novice but really enjoy learning. Any help would be appreciated.

I have a Boston Acoustics Micro System 9000II and one of the binding posts of the rear Micro 80x II broke off when my nephew yanked on the speaker wire.

Question 1:
Can the binding post be fixed on this Boston Acoustics Micro 80x II?
picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/a4-gslp7zO3EvRzd2Bv7Ww?authkey=ZMRi-ePWTtc

Question 2:
If it can be fixed, where can I get it fixed and would it be worth the money?

Question 3:
If it can't be fixed or not worth the cost, I will definitely buy two small bookshelf speakers and move the front speakers (Micro 90x II) to the rear. Is it necessary to get similar brand speakers?

My budget is about $150/speaker. I found a pair of BA Micro 130x speakers that I considered buying (currently $75/speaker, once listed at $250/speaker orig. msrp) because they are small, had good reviews, and were BA. Drawbacks/Concerns: (1) Should I buy newer model speakers instead of the older models; (2) Micro 130x come in Black or White finish and my Micro 9000 system is in a Silver finish.

I'm using an Onkyo TX-SR600 Receiver (avg. output: 80W/channel at 8ohms) and use the system to watch movies (70%) and listen to music (30%). I know my system is pretty old but as a student, I'm gonna have to make due with what I have.

Thank you for reading and your help.

[Adam]

Is the terminal actually broken, or are you just missing the top part that screws on?

EDIT: Never mind. I looked at the other photos. It looks like the metal portion sheared off.

[chemist323]

I believe its the terminal that is broken. The picture would definitely make it easier to see. Thanks.

[Adam]

Something to consider: While the original binding post made for an easier connection, you don't actually need it. What you need in order to make the speaker function is to have metal-to-metal contact between the speaker wire and the metal part of the binding post that is still attached to the speaker. You might be able to find an insulated nut that would fit that thread, or any nut really. You could also - and this will sound cheesy, but yet it would work - tape the speaker wire to the remaining metal portion.

[TLS Guy]

Hello everyone, I'm new to the forum and have been reading tons of posts over the past couple of days instead of my med school books (audioholics forum much more interesting!). I'm definitely a novice but really enjoy learning. Any help would be appreciated.

I have a Boston Acoustics Micro System 9000II and one of the binding posts of the rear Micro 80x II broke off when my nephew yanked on the speaker wire.

Question 1:
Can the binding post be fixed on this Boston Acoustics Micro 80x II?
picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/a4-gslp7zO3EvRzd2Bv7Ww?authkey=ZMRi-ePWTtc

Question 2:
If it can be fixed, where can I get it fixed and would it be worth the money?

Question 3:
If it can't be fixed or not worth the cost, I will definitely buy two small bookshelf speakers and move the front speakers (Micro 90x II) to the rear. Is it necessary to get similar brand speakers?

My budget is about $150/speaker. I found a pair of BA Micro 130x speakers that I considered buying (currently $75/speaker, once listed at $250/speaker orig. msrp) because they are small, had good reviews, and were BA. Drawbacks/Concerns: (1) Should I buy newer model speakers instead of the older models; (2) Micro 130x come in Black or White finish and my Micro 9000 system is in a Silver finish.

I'm using an Onkyo TX-SR600 Receiver (avg. output: 80W/channel at 8ohms) and use the system to watch movies (70%) and listen to music (30%). I know my system is pretty old but as a student, I'm gonna have to make due with what I have.

Thank you for reading and your help.

This should be a job you can do yourself. If not, you DEFINITELY are not a suitable candidate to join our brotherhood in the profession of medicine.

Please post a picture, and we will talk you though it. Fix this, or for ever be denied entry into our brotherhood.

Trust me this will be simplicity itself against sorting out a patient.

[chemist323]

This should be a job you can do yourself. If not, you DEFINITELY are not a suitable candidate to join our brotherhood in the profession of medicine.

Please post a picture, and we will talk you though it. Fix this, or for ever be denied entry into our brotherhood.

Trust me this will be simplicity itself against sorting out a patient.

Hey TLS Guy,
I'm gonna figure how to post the picture or I'll quit med school right now....
<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/a4-gslp7zO3EvRzd2Bv7Ww?authkey=ZMRi-ePWTtc"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_AIhI82iq9LQ/SSjbrHZLDUI/AAAAAAAAAE0/osXFtZ3-9gA/s144/IMG_2455.JPG" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/jimmy.padilla/SpeakerPics?authkey=ZMRi-ePWTtc">speaker pics</a></td></tr></table>

Well what do you know? I still have a future...

[Adam]

Congrats! BTW, you don't need the IMG code around the code for the embedded image. That's why the IMG text is showing up in your post.

[OttoMatic]

I'm sure you can fix that. Here's (http://www.parts-express.com/webpage.cfm?WebPage_ID=3&searchHeader=1&ObjectGroup_ID=107&so=1&filter=binding+post) a whole page of binding posts from Parts Express. Find one that will fit the hole and order it up. Then open up your speaker (it seems to be molded plastic on the back, so you might have to go in through the front by removing the drivers) and swap out the part. You might have to do a little soldering or shaving to get the part in. I'm sure this is fixable, though.

[Adam]

Hee, hee. Finally, the address to the photo. :D Here, I'll make it a bit bigger for everyone.

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_AIhI82iq9LQ/SSjbrHZLDUI/AAAAAAAAAE0/osXFtZ3-9gA/s640/IMG_2455.JPG

[TLS Guy]

Hey TLS Guy,
I'm gonna figure how to post the picture or I'll quit med school right now....
<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/a4-gslp7zO3EvRzd2Bv7Ww?authkey=ZMRi-ePWTtc"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_AIhI82iq9LQ/SSjbrHZLDUI/AAAAAAAAAE0/osXFtZ3-9gA/s144/IMG_2455.JPG" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/jimmy.padilla/SpeakerPics?authkey=ZMRi-ePWTtc">speaker pics</a></td></tr></table>

Well what do you know? I still have a future...

Yes you do! This post (http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=093-562) will probably be your best bet. You might have to drill out the hole a little, and then solder the connection after fixing the post in place. If you don't know how to solder, I will tell you what to purchase, and how to do it.

You have chosen a profession were you are called to be a skillful person. This should present no big challenge to you.

[chemist323]

Yes you do! This post (http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=093-562) will probably be your best bet. You might have to drill out the hole a little, and then solder the connection after fixing the post in place. If you don't know how to solder, I will tell you what to purchase, and how to do it.

You have chosen a profession were you are called to be a skillful person. This should present no big challenge to you.

Thanks for having so much confidence in me. I've never soldered before and don't own a solder or drill (I know, I know), so unfortunately, this quick fix is no longer looking quick, cheap, or easy.

[Adam]

I've never soldered before and don't own a solder or drill (I know, I know), so unfortunately, this quick fix is no longer looking quick, cheap, or easy.

Post number 4, my friend. Instead of using a generic nut, you could probably buy a binding post from Parts Express as suggested (or Radio Shack) and just use the screw on part.

[highfigh]

Hello everyone, I'm new to the forum and have been reading tons of posts over the past couple of days instead of my med school books (audioholics forum much more interesting!). I'm definitely a novice but really enjoy learning. Any help would be appreciated.

I have a Boston Acoustics Micro System 9000II and one of the binding posts of the rear Micro 80x II broke off when my nephew yanked on the speaker wire.

Question 1:
Can the binding post be fixed on this Boston Acoustics Micro 80x II?
picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/a4-gslp7zO3EvRzd2Bv7Ww?authkey=ZMRi-ePWTtc

Question 2:
If it can be fixed, where can I get it fixed and would it be worth the money?

Question 3:
If it can't be fixed or not worth the cost, I will definitely buy two small bookshelf speakers and move the front speakers (Micro 90x II) to the rear. Is it necessary to get similar brand speakers?

My budget is about $150/speaker. I found a pair of BA Micro 130x speakers that I considered buying (currently $75/speaker, once listed at $250/speaker orig. msrp) because they are small, had good reviews, and were BA. Drawbacks/Concerns: (1) Should I buy newer model speakers instead of the older models; (2) Micro 130x come in Black or White finish and my Micro 9000 system is in a Silver finish.

I'm using an Onkyo TX-SR600 Receiver (avg. output: 80W/channel at 8ohms) and use the system to watch movies (70%) and listen to music (30%). I know my system is pretty old but as a student, I'm gonna have to make due with what I have.

Thank you for reading and your help.

I bet that if you removed the woofer, you'd see that the binding post is mounted with a nut on the inside. They're a couple of bucks apiece. All you would need to do is unsolder it, replace it and solder the wire onto the new one.

[chemist323]

Thank you all for your help. I'm going to try the suggestions and let you know how it works out.

[annunaki]

It would not surprise me if no solder was used internally at all, but rather a spade connector. It should be a simple fix.

[highfigh]

And don't use a drill/driver to remove the speaker. Be careful and remove the screws by hand- a driver makes it easy for the tip to slip out and puncture the cone or surround. Use a good screwdriver- no $2 specials.

[davidtwotrees]

The op doesn't sound too thrilled to be opening up his speaker.....regardless of his chosen profession........buy the time he buys/borrows a drill, a soldering iron and solder, and orders the part..............
It shouldn't be a big deal to order a part, heck, Boston might just mail you a free one if you ask nice and tell them how great their products are, and install it, hopefully with just a screwdriver............but, failing that............
It sure looks to me like there are some threads left on that post. Are you sure you can't get a nut threaded back on there? Or tightly wrap some stripped speaker wire around what remains of the post and use some gorilla glue on it? Or buy an electrical post connector from home depot to attach the wire on there??
Jury rigged, sure, but all that he needs is contact..... and it's not like these are hi end speaks......you should be able to get solid contact on there without making a big project out of this. Not a professional fix, but cheap and the show will go on. Just my two cents.

[OttoMatic]

Yep, contacting Boston is a great idea. They might even replace the part for you if you send it to them. If they won't, and you're still stuck, PM me and I will fix it for you if you send it to me (just pay shipping and parts, I'll do the work for free).

[bandphan]

I bet that if you removed the woofer, you'd see that the binding post is mounted with a nut on the inside. They're a couple of bucks apiece. All you would need to do is unsolder it, replace it and solder the wire onto the new one.

It should be, the ones on my 10k ba system are, i just checked;)

[just-some-guy]

o/p. i'm sure you have a friend/family that is a handy man. have them fix it. it really should be easy for a hands on type of guy.

[gixxerific]

Yet one more suggeston. If you have a Radio Shack near by tak the speaker up they may be able to help you out. Maybe even help you get it apart.

[Midcow2]

Question 1:

The speaker biining post is broken. If you are handy you can fix ityourself. You can get a new speaker post for $1.00 for monoprice. http://spearitsound.amazonwebstore.com/Cambridge-Audio-S30-Speakers-Black/M/B00198LYMU.htm?traffic_src=froogle&utm_medium=organic&utm_source=froogle
You would cut-out the old with exacto knife solder the lead to the new post and expoxy in the speaker.

Here is another idea that would also work. an alligator clip
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062235


Question 2:
An audio or home theater shop should be able to fix fairly inexpnsively the parts are low cost so it would only be labor, maybe $20-$25. You could contact Boston Acoustics and ask them avbout repair costs or a local shi=op they would recommend.

Question 3:

A great pair of bookshelves for $219 deliveredCcambridge Audio S30http://spearitsound.amazonwebstore.com/Cambridge-Audio-S30-Speakers-Black/M/B00198LYMU.htm?traffic_src=froogle&utm_medium=organic&utm_source=froogle


Thanks,

MidCow2

[chemist323]

It would not surprise me if no solder was used internally at all, but rather a spade connector. It should be a simple fix.

So I opened up the speaker and it appears as if a nut is holding the binding post in place. Doesn't appear as if I need to solder anything. However, there is some purple goop (most likely glue I presume) at the interface between the bolt and the red spade connector from the speaker. What is the purpose of the glue/goop? Thanks again for everyones suggestions.

<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/WTUbsZSsNVPg0tCviF_Izw?authkey=ZMRi-ePWTtc"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_AIhI82iq9LQ/SSpYT7Rl3tI/AAAAAAAAAHE/pZKYiZxp4a4/s144/IMG_2471.JPG" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/jimmy.padilla/SpeakerPics?authkey=ZMRi-ePWTtc">speaker pics</a></td></tr></table>

<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/tTLgEj82IDPneNoQfj06Pg?authkey=ZMRi-ePWTtc"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_AIhI82iq9LQ/SSpYN3MPoSI/AAAAAAAAAG8/qBYBkArOBss/s144/IMG_2469.JPG" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/jimmy.padilla/SpeakerPics?authkey=ZMRi-ePWTtc">speaker pics</a></td></tr></table>

[Exit]

You could call Boston Acoustic's customer service department and see if you can buy a replacement terninal post. That is what I did to fix a damaged Klipsch speaker. They were very nice to work with and the part was only a couple of bucks. You can probably install this yourself it you want to because the only mildly difficult part is desoldering and soldering the wire from the terminal.

[OttoMatic]

So I opened up the speaker and it appears as if a nut is holding the binding post in place. Doesn't appear as if I need to solder anything. However, there is some purple goop (most likely glue I presume) at the interface between the bolt and the red spade connector from the speaker. What is the purpose of the glue/goop? Thanks again for everyones suggestions.

You are correct that there appears to be no solder. That's good, and will make the fix easy.

You're also correct that the purple stuff is probably a glue. It's very common for that glue to be used on threads of a screw so that they don't loosen over time. It's very good for that purpose, and it better than a lock washer. You will still be able to break the glue and remove the binding post. You'll just have to turn it a little harder than normal. The best way to do that is using proper tools, so be sure to have the right size socket or wrench when loosening that nut. I'd suggest replacing the glue when you are done; you don't want that nut to come loose and contact with the other binding post (that's a dead short and is not good for your amp). You can buy the glue at Home Depot and the like, and it's sold under a brand name of Loctite ("Lock Tight"). I'm sure there are other brands as well, but if you ask someone in hardware, they will know what Loctite is.

Good luck!

[TLS Guy]

So I opened up the speaker and it appears as if a nut is holding the binding post in place. Doesn't appear as if I need to solder anything. However, there is some purple goop (most likely glue I presume) at the interface between the bolt and the red spade connector from the speaker. What is the purpose of the glue/goop? Thanks again for everyones suggestions.

<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/WTUbsZSsNVPg0tCviF_Izw?authkey=ZMRi-ePWTtc"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_AIhI82iq9LQ/SSpYT7Rl3tI/AAAAAAAAAHE/pZKYiZxp4a4/s144/IMG_2471.JPG" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/jimmy.padilla/SpeakerPics?authkey=ZMRi-ePWTtc">speaker pics</a></td></tr></table>

<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/tTLgEj82IDPneNoQfj06Pg?authkey=ZMRi-ePWTtc"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_AIhI82iq9LQ/SSpYN3MPoSI/AAAAAAAAAG8/qBYBkArOBss/s144/IMG_2469.JPG" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/jimmy.padilla/SpeakerPics?authkey=ZMRi-ePWTtc">speaker pics</a></td></tr></table>

The goo will be Locktite, or equivalent product. It stops nuts coming loose. It is available at all auto parts stores. It never sets to the point were you can't get the nuts off. You have an easy fix there whether you use a Boston part or one from Radio Shack.

[annunaki]

So I opened up the speaker and it appears as if a nut is holding the binding post in place. Doesn't appear as if I need to solder anything. However, there is some purple goop (most likely glue I presume) at the interface between the bolt and the red spade connector from the speaker. What is the purpose of the glue/goop? Thanks again for everyones suggestions.

<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/WTUbsZSsNVPg0tCviF_Izw?authkey=ZMRi-ePWTtc"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_AIhI82iq9LQ/SSpYT7Rl3tI/AAAAAAAAAHE/pZKYiZxp4a4/s144/IMG_2471.JPG" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/jimmy.padilla/SpeakerPics?authkey=ZMRi-ePWTtc">speaker pics</a></td></tr></table>

<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/tTLgEj82IDPneNoQfj06Pg?authkey=ZMRi-ePWTtc"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_AIhI82iq9LQ/SSpYN3MPoSI/AAAAAAAAAG8/qBYBkArOBss/s144/IMG_2469.JPG" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/jimmy.padilla/SpeakerPics?authkey=ZMRi-ePWTtc">speaker pics</a></td></tr></table>

The purpose of the glue is to prevent rattles and ensure a lasting hold of the connector. You can usually heat this adhesive to loosen it (if it does not simply break loose). Sometimes it breaks loose pretty easily. It just depends upon what type of adhesive they used.

[Midcow2]

The purpose of the glue is to prevent rattles and ensure a lasting hold of the connector. You can usually heat this adhesive to loosen it (if it does not simply break loose). Sometimes it breaks loose pretty easily. It just depends upon what type of adhesive they used.

Locktite -to prevent the binding post nut from loosening!