Subwoofer compatibility!!

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Raptor22

Raptor22

Junior Audioholic
Hello guys, I have a brief question...

I have a set of computer speakers, more specifically, the Klipsch ProMedia 5.1 Ultra, you can read about it here: http://www.klipsch.com/products/discontinued/details/promedia-ultra-5-1.aspx

Notice that the subwoofer of this system has an "SWS LINK" so that you can connect an extra subwoofer, it was actually designed for the ProMedia SWS add-on subwoofer that's been discontinued by Klipsch (http://www.klipsch.com/products/discontinued/details/sws.aspx), and I can't find it anywhere.

I heard from people that you can actually hook up other kinds of more powerful subwoofers via the SWS LINK, and I've been curious what types are compatible. I am looking to spend less than $200, and since it's a computer setup, I don't expect it to be as powerful as someone's dual 18" in the trunk of their car! :p

I'd highly appreciate it if anyone can help me with this. Thanks for your time!!

Greets,
Raptor22
 
Midcow2

Midcow2

Banned
Subwoofer is passive, need speaker level input!

Yiu can hook up a second Klipsch Promedia SWS subwoofer System.

The Promedia SWS subwoofer system is a classic system (2003) that is no longer manufactured. It appears to be a passive sub that takes speaker level inputs.

Here is a description and information of the system:
http://www.klipsch.com/media/products/owners-manuals/SWSSubwooferManual.pdf

The manual itself:
http://www.klipsch.com/media/products/owners-manuals/SWSSubwooferManual.pdf

If you want to connect to the LFE or subwoofer output of most AVRs ( receivers) then you will need to insert an amplifier, because the iotuputs are pre-outs ( pre-amplifier, i.e. input to an amplifier)


However, since it is speaker level you counld actualllly hook to the the surround or presence speaker terminlas. The only issue is since it is a sub woofer designed for lower frequencies ,it probably wouldn't be receiviing just htel ower frequencies and the mid and higher frequencies would probably be lost or not sound good.

Good Luck.
 
Adam

Adam

Audioholic Jedi
I'm going to respectfully disagree with Midcow. The SWS add-on subs are powered, but Raptor22 is asking if he can use a different sub. I believe that answer is yes.

Raptor22, you're wondering if the SWS link is just a normal subwoofer output. From what little I've read on the web, it does indeed appear to be that. You can help out by verifying if that SWS link jack is an RCA jack (it doesn't have to be for this to work, but it appears that it is from my reading). There are at least two options for connecting a separate powered subwoofer to your system:

1. Connect the SWS link output to the line-level input on a powered sub. With this, the volume level of the second sub will be controlled by the volume controls from your Ultra.

2. It looks like the Ultra takes three analog inputs (no digital inputs). So, hopefully that means that you have it connected to a sound card with three analog outputs. One of those outputs is for both the center channel and the subwoofer. That output can be split into those two channels, the subwoofer line can then be split into two feeds - one going to the second sub, the other one combining back with the center channel feed and going into the Ultra. That probably sounds much more complicated than it is. The downside to this is that the volume control for the Ultra won't affect the volume on the second sub.

The best option is #1, but if that doesn't work, we can easily talk you through option #2.

Adam

EDIT: You asked which types of subs were compatible. Any powered sub would be compatible, so you'd just be looking for a good powered sub under $200. For a computer system, that's totally doable. There should be options at your local chain stores, as well as online. The Dayton subs at partsexpress.com get some good press on this forum.
 
Midcow2

Midcow2

Banned
Is SWS is not passive i agree with Adam

Adam said:
I'm going to respectfully disagree with Midcow. The SWS add-on subs are powered, but Raptor22 is asking if he can use a different sub. I believe that answer is yes.

Raptor22, you're wondering if the SWS link is just a normal subwoofer output. From what little I've read on the web, it does indeed appear to be that. You can help out by verifying if that SWS link jack is an RCA jack (it doesn't have to be for this to work, but it appears that it is from my reading). There are at least two options for connecting a separate powered subwoofer to your system:

1. Connect the SWS link output to the line-level input on a powered sub. With this, the volume level of the second sub will be controlled by the volume controls from your Ultra.

2. It looks like the Ultra takes three analog inputs (no digital inputs). So, hopefully that means that you have it connected to a sound card with three analog outputs. One of those outputs is for both the center channel and the subwoofer. That output can be split into those two channels, the subwoofer line can then be split into two feeds - one going to the second sub, the other one combining back with the center channel feed and going into the Ultra. That probably sounds much more complicated than it is. The downside to this is that the volume control for the Ultra won't affect the volume on the second sub.

The best option is #1, but if that doesn't work, we can easily talk you through option #2.

Adam

EDIT: You asked which types of subs were compatible. Any powered sub would be compatible, so you'd just be looking for a good powered sub under $200. For a computer system, that's totally doable. There should be options at your local chain stores, as well as online. The Dayton subs at partsexpress.com get some good press on this forum.
Click to expand...
Adam, good response!. From my reading the SWS subs were passive; if they are powered then I agree with what you have said.

Here is why they appear passive to me:



 
Adam

Adam

Audioholic Jedi
Midcow, the discontinued ProMedia SWS subwoofers are 100W active subs. If you click on the link that Raptor22 gave for the sub, it's part of the description. The diagrams that you showed are for linking active subs to one another. The "IN" and "OUT" ports are for line-level connections.

They certainly might exist, but I haven't seen any subs marketed for PC systems that are passive. Most are simple plug-n-play type systems.
 
j_garcia

j_garcia

Audioholic Jedi
If it is just a pre-out connection, then it doesn't really matter what the "next" sub is. It is no different than using a Y connector to split the signal to 2 subs.
 
Raptor22

Raptor22

Junior Audioholic
Adam, I appreciate your load of info! As for your second option... yes I do have one of those headphone jack splitters that transforms one into two. I suppose that could work if I plug it into my CENTER/SUB output port? For the info my soundcard is an Audigy 2 ZS, supports 7.1 so I don't have a problem with compatibility there :p

I'm not too good with making a decision with powered subs. Never owned one! The local chain stores I have around here are Circuit City, Best Buy, Fry's Electronics. Would a powered sub be one of those for home theater systems?

As for the SWS link on the Ultra sub panel, yes, it does look like an RCA jack. I'm also unfamiliar with these types (I'm only good with PC/headphone jacks hehe... the FRONT, CENTER/SUB, and REAR).

If I needed anything it'd be making a decision on which powered sub to buy and how to hook it up and with what wiring etc... I need a lesson on this haha :confused: Thanks a lot for your responses!!

Raptor22
 
Adam

Adam

Audioholic Jedi
Raptor22,

Happy to help! An RCA jack? Excellent. I believe that you're golden and can go with option #1. BTW, I reread my post, and I made option #2 way too complicated and probably not even correct. I was pretty tired when I wrote that, so just ignore it.

The powered subs that we're talking about are indeed the ones that are marketed for home theater systems. They start at around $100. Whether or not you'll end up spending your whole $200 will depend on how much you want for your PC set-up.

Connection should be very easy. You'll just need a cable that has an RCA connector on both ends (like this as just one of many examples). You can get those for real cheap - less than $5. You'll plug one end of that cable into your Ultra, and the other end will plug into the subwoofer.

There are a number of threads in this forum that discuss things like "what's the best sub for under $200." The Dayton subs from partsexpress.com come up as regular suggestions. I'd say that you could try any of the ones from the three stores that you mentioned that are within your price range. After all, if you don't like it, you can always take it back!

We'll be happy to give you more suggestions and connection advice. Just let us know.

Adam
 
Raptor22

Raptor22

Junior Audioholic
Wow... never thought it could be that simple! Basically just purchase a powered sub (by itself of course), plug it into the power outlet, and plug the RCA cable into my ProMedia SWS output and I'm ready to go? That almost seems too easy :p ... so basically the volume control on my Klipsch control module will control my powered sub along with my ProMedia sub? Daaaaang...

I'm pretty sure though, that a powered sub would more than likely have more than one RCA jack on it... which gives me a little guessing game I guess lol... The SWS link on my Ultra is black in color, so I'm assuming I have to match them color coded?

I'm probably gonna go sub huntin the next few days... more than likely goin for a 10" or if I felt crazy that moment, a 12" :D Just hope that nothing would be overpowering for my Ultra (I have to admit the dual 8" in the Ultra pounds harder than the average 10").

Cheers!
Raptor22
 
Adam

Adam

Audioholic Jedi
Yep, it really is that easy! Well, almost.

The sub that you buy will have some controls on the back. One will be a volume control, and another will be a crossover control. There may be more. None of those will be tough to understand, and if they are, we can talk you through all of them.

Some subs will have a single RCA input (typically labeled as an "LFE" input, "LFE" stands for "low frequency effect"). Some subs won't have that, but instead will have two RCA inputs to handle a stereo signal (for both left and right channels). Some will have all three. Don't worry at all if you get a sub with two or more RCA inputs. Some of those will specifically state which input to use if you only have one cable. If there's any doubts, you can always use a y-splitter and go from the one RCA connector on the cable to two in order to plug into both. I don't think that subs use the same color coding (I don't recall any black inputs), but don't let that phase you.

If that SWS output acts the way that I think it does, this should be a piece of cake. Now, go have fun looking at all those subs out there!

Adam
 
Adam

Adam

Audioholic Jedi
Just to give an example of what I mentioned in post #10, below is a picture of the back panel on a Polk PSW10 subwoofer (something you might see at those chain stores). The two jacks labeled as "LINE IN" with a "L" and "R" in the top right corner of the picture are the inputs that you'd use on that subwoofer. "L" just stands for "left", and "R" for "right." Like I said, we can talk you through all of the other dials and switches on the back.

 
Raptor22

Raptor22

Junior Audioholic
Yep, I just confirmed that the SWS link on the back of the Ultra is an RCA OUTPUT... on the other hand, the ProMedia SWS has an RCA INPUT.

I'm probably gonna look for a sub with the LFE input... or as you said Adam, the line level input. If I shall find one with two or more RCA inputs... I'd probably read through the manual or just come to you for help again :)

Thanks for the Polk Audio picture Adam, I understand the low frequency crossover concept... and it's starting to come together in one piece :D
 
Adam

Adam

Audioholic Jedi
Cool, I'm glad that it's all starting to make sense!

The "LFE" inputs and the "LINE IN" inputs are extremely similar. The only difference that I know of is that the "LFE" input doesn't use the crossover built into the subwoofer (the part of the subwoofer that would try to filter out any of the higher "non-bass" frequencies). With the other "LINE IN" inputs, the crossover is used unless the sub has a switch to shut it off. Again, not a big deal at all. You'll be fine with either of those types of inputs.

You definitely want to get something with the RCA jack inputs, though. I think that you'd have a hard time finding one in those chain stores that doesn't have them, to be honest.

EDIT: Oops, I just saw in your thread that you understand about the crossovers. Didn't mean to explain something that you already knew! Sorry.
 
Raptor22

Raptor22

Junior Audioholic
No worries Adam! I'm lucky to have such an enthusiastic helper :D

I browsed through Craigslist and found two people in my area with the following woofers selling CHEAP and MINT condition...

JBL PB10
JBL PB12

Only differences I see are the size of the woofers and the amp power. PB10 is going for $120 and PB12 is going for $150. Great deals I'd say.

They both seem to have the RCA inputs... looks like more than two as well!
 
Adam

Adam

Audioholic Jedi
I have no experience with those subs, but I did a quick look at Amazon to check prices and reviews.

The PB10 has gotten a number of good reviews and sells for over $300. The PB12 has gotten a lot of very bad reviews (a quick skimming seemed to indicate that the amps would fail). Between the two, I'd vote for the PB10.

Hopefully others here with some experience, if any, will chime in.
 
Raptor22

Raptor22

Junior Audioholic
Ugh... amp failures are the worst! I've had this problem with my Ultra before... just read the reviews regarding the amp of this system :eek: Just my two cents on this subject...

Lucky me... the amp of my Ultra is actually a newer and upgraded one so that it would never overheat and fail... how did I do it? For anyone out there with a ProMedia 5.1 Ultra or THX system, this may just solve your issues once and for all: www.elliot-tronics.com

This dude knows what he is doing and is very professional. He repaired and upgraded my amp... and not only does it work like new again, it sounds better as well!! :D

Ok Ok... back on subject, JBL PB10 is more than enough for me. Any bigger and the cops would be around my house :p
 
Raptor22

Raptor22

Junior Audioholic
Well damn that was the fastest I've ever bought a speaker unit ever! This unit looks excellent, in MINT shape... can obviously tell the previous owner treated it lightly. Here's the part that I may need a little help on *drum roll*.......... the connection! :eek:

Took a picture of the amp panel of this system:



I have nothing but the attached power cord... so now I am trying to figure out what to buy and how to connect. I am at the mercy of this forum now lol. :confused:
 
Adam

Adam

Audioholic Jedi
Wow, that was fast!

Sorry, I feel asleep. Let me wake up for a minute and I'll start putting together some info for you.

Adam
 
Raptor22

Raptor22

Junior Audioholic
Oh take as long as you want to wake up, I'm gonna go pass out for now and probably won't be alive for the next 12 hours (hard day)... Thanks!!

ZzZz...:cool:
 
Adam

Adam

Audioholic Jedi
Alrighty. In case you didn't get one with the sub, you can get the owner's manual from JBL at this link here (it's a PDF file).

The way that you want to connect it is shown on page 5 of the manual. So, you'll use one cable that has RCA connectors on both ends. One end of the cable will go into the SWS Link jack on your Ultra, and the other end will go into either the "L" or the "R" jack on the subwoofer next to the "LINE LEVEL IN" label (it doesn't matter which one you use).

Set the "LFE/NORMAL" switch to the "LFE" position. This will bypass the crossover inside of the sub.

The "PHASE" switch is something that you'll adjust once you get it set up in your room. It's something that you would put at "0" or "180" depending on what sounds the best to you. The description of what that switch does is on page 7 of the manual.

The "LEVEL" dial is just the volume control for the sub. You'll set that at whatever volume sounds good to you when you have this connected to the rest of your system. There's more in-depth ways of calibrating this, but for now - set it at a volume that makes you happy. I recommend that you start off with the volume set to "MIN" and work your way up.

When you plug the unit into the power outlet, it will be in standby mode (it will probably turn on when you first plug it in, though). It should switch on automatically when it receives a signal through the audio cable (the one with the RCA connectors).
 
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