Biwiring Question and driving RBH 4-ohm speakers on a Yamaha RX-V2600

[HTHOLIC]

Hey everyone I just wanted to know about BI-WIRING speakers

Someone I know had bought a RBH 1266 SE/R system and the plate jumpers are removed.

If anyone of you aren't familiar the plate jumper is what connects the RED and black speaker terminals ( to another set of RED and Black (positive and negative to put it another way)


The ONLY way I can USE the speakers is if I , biwire or Bi-amp it. My friend's Yamaha receiver has all 7 channels in use for speakers, but maybe bi-amping might be possible with the yamaha?


In any case, I was well advised by alan loft, and others as well as this website, (although I had to dig up the yamaha review for the 8 ohm setting), that you NEVER use a 4-ohm setting for speakers with any receiver.I was informed about the yamaha but wasn't sure about the others.

Anyways, Yamaha should've put that in the manual because not everyone knows about it, atleast I did my research beforehand

[mtrycrafts]

[FONT="Arial Black"]
The ONLY way I can USE the speakers is if I , biwire or Bi-amp it. My friend's Yamaha receiver has all 7 channels in use for speakers, but maybe bi-amping might be possible with the yamaha?

Why is this? You can always place a short wire between the two red and two black posts. Case solved.

[HTHOLIC]

I think they have those upgraded WBT binding posts,

Which bare wire goes into them.

[mtrycrafts]

I think they have those upgraded WBT binding posts,

Which bare wire goes into them.

Don't know about those binding posts but any wire that would fit and still accept the wire to one set of posts. the new wire jumpers are it.
Do you have a link to those posts?

[Seth=L]

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t161/SethKL/gdsgfdgfdgfds.jpg
Dun, dun, dun!:D

Which WBT's did you get, I think they still accept bare wire. And you could always get another set of jumpers. Bi-wiring would be more expensive than getting new jumpers, and bi-amping would be expensive and not have any impact on the sound (it will do the same thing as bi-wiring when you connect it to the same amp, one power supply for any and all channels)

[mtrycrafts]

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t161/SethKL/gdsgfdgfdgfds.jpg
Dun, dun, dun!:D


That is a good picture showing a wire jumper. Keep it for future use. :D

[HTHOLIC]

I can post you a picture, but is there a risk of a short, for example lets say's you wire a 12 guage to both sections?

The speaker in question is the RBH 1266 SE/SER/LSE.

I am not sure which WBT post was used , I guess I can find out , but they all look the same.

[markw]

I can post you a picture, but is there a risk of a short, for example lets say's you wire a 12 guage to both sections?Only if you do something incredibly stoopid.

Connect red to red, black to black, and make sure there are no loose wires to touch each other.

[jinjuku]

You could always get NEW plate jumpers. or you could expose more of the conductor and thread it up through both binding posts.

[mtrycrafts]

Your sig line is killing me markw:D

[sivadselim]

......................and bi-amping would be expensive and not have any impact on the sound (it will do the same thing as bi-wiring when you connect it to the same amp, one power supply for any and all channels)Then by definition, that wouldn't be "bi-amping".

Granted, the benefits of passively bi-amping by assigning the extra 6th and 7th amplifiers of a receiver (and many allow this, nowadays) that's only being used for "5.1" to bi-amp duty is marginal, at best.

BTW, replacing the standard flat connecting plates with speaker wire is a pretty useless endeavor (unless, of course, they've been lost, as in the OP's case). The binding plates that come with most speakers are more than sufficient enough to conduct the signal over such a short distance.

[OttoMatic]

(it will do the same thing as bi-wiring when you connect it to the same amp, one power supply for any and all channels)

Why is that?

Are you saying that if I took a big five-channel amp like this (http://www.caryaudio.com/products/cinema/cinema5.html), and used four of the channels to bi-amp my mains, and the other for the center, it wouldn't be considered bi-amping?

I don't see that having a single power supply is the limiting factor, though it can be. If the power supply section of the amplifier is built properly, but the amp sections are poor, then it's a limitation of the amplifier sections.

I agree that using potentially reassignable channels 6 and 7 of a receiver probably won't get you much more. However, if that receiver's power supply and amps are properly designed, you might.

I'm not trying to cause any trouble, but it's a fairly bold statement you're making.

[sivadselim]

Why is that?

I'm not trying to cause any trouble, but it's a fairly bold statement you're making.Honestly, what he's saying isnt really very clear.

[Seth=L]

Then by definition, that wouldn't be "bi-amping".

Granted, the benefits of passively bi-amping by assigning the extra 6th and 7th amplifiers of a receiver (and many allow this, nowadays) that's only being used for "5.1" to bi-amp duty is marginal, at best.

BTW, replacing the standard flat connecting plates with speaker wire is a pretty useless endeavor (unless, of course, they've been lost, as in the OP's case). The binding plates that come with most speakers are more than sufficient enough to conduct the signal over such a short distance.
Not really, because you are looking at a receiver with discrete output stages all capable of delivering near or above the full rated power of the receiver's total output.

Concerning the wires used as jumpers, why is this a useless endevour. I am missing the straps and don't want to buy more. The reason the straps are missing is because they are prone to vibrating at certain frequencies which is classified as distortion, and personally it annoyed me greatly.;)

[Seth=L]

Why is that?

Are you saying that if I took a big five-channel amp like this (http://www.caryaudio.com/products/cinema/cinema5.html), and used four of the channels to bi-amp my mains, and the other for the center, it wouldn't be considered bi-amping?

I don't see that having a single power supply is the limiting factor, though it can be. If the power supply section of the amplifier is built properly, but the amp sections are poor, then it's a limitation of the amplifier sections.

I agree that using potentially reassignable channels 6 and 7 of a receiver probably won't get you much more. However, if that receiver's power supply and amps are properly designed, you might.

I'm not trying to cause any trouble, but it's a fairly bold statement you're making.
By looking, only briefly, at that amplifier it appears to be much like so many other modern modular style amplifiers. Any channel in that amplifier should be able to output up to the full output of the amplifier. So one channel could achieve, for a short time, 1000 watts at 8 ohms. The output stages on these high end amplifiers can handle excessive amounts of power, more than necessary, and this helps two things. It helps dynamics, if each channel was limited to only 200 watts of total output it would be a rather poor performing amplifier given its price. It also helps ensure the channels don't fry when hit with sudden and difficult loads at high output levels.

I am afraid I can be no more clear than that.:)

[sivadselim]

Not really, because you are looking at a receiver with discrete output stages all capable of delivering near or above the full rated power of the receiver's total output.I'm not sure what you are saying "not really" to. In your post, which was hard to understand, exactly, what you were describing seemed to me to be bi-wiring a speaker off of the same amplifier which is not he same thing as passively bi-amping a speaker off of 2 different amplifiers.

Concerning the wires used as jumpers, why is this a useless endevour. I am missing the straps and don't want to buy more. The reason the straps are missing is because they are prone to vibrating at certain frequencies which is classified as distortion, and personally it annoyed me greatly.;)I said that the only reason to replace them was if they were missing. I consider it a useless endeavor, because as I explained, replacing them woith speaker wire will provide no benefit. If the binding plates are vibrating, this is indicative of the binding post knobs simply not being screwed down tightly enough. Of course this problem can obviously be circumvented by replacing them with wires. It could also be alleviated by screwing the binding post knobs down more tightly.

[sivadselim]

By looking, only briefly, at that amplifier it appears to be much like so many other modern modular style amplifiers. Any channel in that amplifier should be able to output up to the full output of the amplifier. So one channel could achieve, for a short time, 1000 watts at 8 ohms. The output stages on these high end amplifiers can handle excessive amounts of power, more than necessary, and this helps two things. It helps dynamics, if each channel was limited to only 200 watts of total output it would be a rather poor performing amplifier given its price. It also helps ensure the channels don't fry when hit with sudden and difficult loads at high output levels.

I am afraid I can be no more clear than that.But passively bi-amping a speaker by utilizing 2 amps of an amplifier/receiver, although perhaps not doubly beneficial for any number of reasons, is still completely different than amplifying a speaker with only one amp of the same amplifier/receiver.

[HTHOLIC]

So what should I do with the RBH speakers?

How does one reattach a plate jumper anyways.

Most Stereo amps I see such as emotiva don't have biamping capability , they just have one red and black for each channel.

[OttoMatic]

But passively bi-amping a speaker by utilizing 2 amps of an amplifier/receiver, although perhaps not doubly beneficial for any number of reasons, is still completely different than amplifying a speaker with only one amp of the same amplifier/receiver.

Well stated, sivadselim. My point exactly.

[OttoMatic]

So what should I do with the RBH speakers?

Well, if you just want to use a single of your amp per speaker, I'd probably just wire them up as suggested by Seth=L in post 6 of this thread. Forget about the plate jumpers, unless you already replaced them.

How does one reattach a plate jumper anyways.

Unscrew the speaker wire jacks on the back of the speakers. There will be four of them. Place one plate jumper so that it's under both red jacks, and tighten the screws down such that plate jumper is securely fastened under the red terminals only. Do the same thing for the black terminals. You will now be able to see that you have connected the red to the red and the black to the black. That's it.

Most Stereo amps I see such as emotiva don't have biamping capability , they just have one red and black for each channel.

That's right, you can't bi-amp with a stereo amp; you can bi-wire though (not advocating bi-wiring, per se).

Well, the point of bi-amping is to assign a separate amplifier to each "part" of the speakers (sometimes referred to as "top" and "bottom" or "high" and "low"). Now, if you have an Emotiva five-channel amp, you can use four of those amplifier channels to do a bi-amp setup for your speakers. You can then use the remaining channel for the center. You will have to use another amp for your surrounds (unless you have a seven-channel amp, and then you're OK).

You will need to run two speaker cables to each speaker. Remove the plate jumpers or any wire that might be connecting the "top" and "bottom" of your speaker terminals.

Split your left input signal to two channels of the amp. Using a Y-splitter is fine, and the high input impedance of the amplifier will allow you to NOT realize a loss in the signal's power. So, now let's say that you have channels 1 and 2 on the amp fed with the left output from your preamp. Run the output of channel 1 on the amp to the "top" of your left speaker and the output of channel 2 to the "bottom" of your left speaker.

Now split the right output of your preamp and feed it to channels 3 and 4 on your amp. Connect channel 3 to the "top" of your right speaker and channel 4 to the "bottom" of your right speaker.

You are now passively biwired. Active bi-wiring is something different, and you won't want to do that unless you are ready for quite a bit more technical work, and buying more equipment. Don't worry about active bi-amping for now.

If you want to get it straight, maybe get out a piece of paper and pencil and methodically draw out what I've described above. It'll become more clear with a picture. My apologies if you are already hip to all this.

Good luck!

[Seth=L]

I'm not sure what you are saying "not really" to. In your post, which was hard to understand, exactly, what you were describing seemed to me to be bi-wiring a speaker off of the same amplifier which is not he same thing as passively bi-amping a speaker off of 2 different amplifiers.

I said that the only reason to replace them was if they were missing. I consider it a useless endeavor, because as I explained, replacing them woith speaker wire will provide no benefit. If the binding plates are vibrating, this is indicative of the binding post knobs simply not being screwed down tightly enough. Of course this problem can obviously be circumvented by replacing them with wires. It could also be alleviated by screwing the binding post knobs down more tightly.
Concerning the straps.

The binding posts where screwed down tightly, but the straps would still resonate, trust me, I was there and I know what happened.;)

Just for fun, I will explain this one last time. The link posted to the Cary amplifier rated for 200 watts x 5 likely has a modular design. Each module is going to be overbuilt to the extreme to be able to meet the full capacity of output of the entire amplifier on that one channel. If that isn't clear, sorry, but I will not continue to explain it after this.

Similar designs, though not modular, are found on most modern receivers. Each channel (it may be two transistors or four depending on the receiver) can deliver the full rated power of the receiver. Many receivers power ratings have been done with just one channel operating anyway.

[sivadselim]

Just for fun, I will explain this one last time. The link posted to the Cary amplifier rated for 200 watts x 5 likely has a modular design. Each module is going to be overbuilt to the extreme to be able to meet the full capacity of output of the entire amplifier on that one channel. If that isn't clear, sorry, but I will not continue to explain it after this.

Similar designs, though not modular, are found on most modern receivers. Each channel (it may be two transistors or four depending on the receiver) can deliver the full rated power of the receiver. Many receivers power ratings have been done with just one channel operating anyway.Sorry, I don't know what you're trying to say or what its relevance is. :confused:

[Seth=L]

Sorry, I don't know what you're trying to say or what its relevance is. :confused:
OK, maybe I have missed something. What are you getting at?

My point would be using two sets of outputs on a receiver or amplifier would render the same results as bi-wiring, which is next to nill.

[HTHOLIC]

I am still confused as to wether I should use plate jumpers v. speaker wire- I don't have the plate jumpers, I think RBH can give me some.

What is the difference between an active/passive crossover, the RBH is 3 range (subwoofer,woofer,tweeter) , but it only has 2 terminals, so what do I HAVE?

[avaserfi]

I am still confused as to wether I should use plate jumpers v. speaker wire- I don't have the plate jumpers, I think RBH can give me some.

They will both carry the current equally. If you want a cleaner look see if you can get the plate jumpers. If you want it done quickly and you want to be done with it just use speaker wire. They will both perform equally.

[OttoMatic]

What is the difference between an active/passive crossover, the RBH is 3 range (subwoofer,woofer,tweeter) , but it only has 2 terminals, so what do I HAVE?

An active crossover requires powered electronics. The signal is separated (crossed over before it hits the amp).

You definitely have passive crossovers in your speakers; almost all are. The signal is crossed over after the amp.

There's more detail than that, but that's the basics.

[PENG]

Having seen enough of Seth's posts, I bet he might do more research and would then realize he was incorrect (I mean technically/electrically) this time:):):).

[mtrycrafts]

I am still confused as to wether I should use plate jumpers v. speaker wire- I don't have the plate jumpers, I think RBH can give me some.


Since you don't have the plate jumpers as it would normally come with, you can use short wires instead as the picture showed above. Very simple and the company doesn't have to waste its money sending the plates. It both accomplishes the same task.

What is the difference between an active/passive crossover, the RBH is 3 range (subwoofer,woofer,tweeter) , but it only has 2 terminals, so what do I HAVE?

As was posted about the active/passive. Your low driver goes to one terminal. The other two drivers are on the second terminal.
If you went active, you would need to go to all 3 drivers and use 3 amps, one for each driver, and bypassing the passive crossover.

[zumbo]

SethL provided the perfect picture, for mtrycrafts perfect solution.

All of the other debating should be ignored by the OP.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t161/SethKL/gdsgfdgfdgfds.jpg

[kfalls]

Instead of splitting the R and L channels with a 'Y' cable to bi-amp, why not use the subwoofer output for the sub portion of the speaker? Of course if you want to still use the internal amplifiers you will need to run the sub out to the input of the specific amplifier.

I have a pair of Legacy Focus configured this way. I have the receiver's L & R channels driving the high/midrange portion of the speaker and a Yamaha M-65 driving the 3 12"/ch woofers using an input from the sub-out.

I believe what Seth? was trying to say earlier is he believes bi-amping using the same amplifier isn't true bi-amping because of the shared electrical charasteristics of the amp. The reason behind bi-wire, moreso than bi-amp is to isolate the effects of the woofer and tweeter circuits on each other. If you separate them at the speaker then connect them electrically at the amplifier with shared electrical characteristics, you don't gain anything.

On many AV receivers the power supplies are shared amoung all channels, unless you have true multi-mono designs. Most recervers share a transformer with multiple output windings, shared regulators and filter caps. An example of a multi-mono desigh is the Marantz which shares only the incoming AC in their multi-channel configurations of M-500 and M-700 amplifiers. Each amp can be standalone and each has a separate on-board power supplies. They are grouped in a single case with configurable from 1 - 5 channels for convenience.

Bi-amping in my system allows better control of the bass and allows for better mid/highs by freeing up additional power.

[OttoMatic]

Instead of splitting the R and L channels with a 'Y' cable to bi-amp, why not use the subwoofer output for the sub portion of the speaker? Of course if you want to still use the internal amplifiers you will need to run the sub out to the input of the specific amplifier.

I have a pair of Legacy Focus configured this way. I have the receiver's L & R channels driving the high/midrange portion of the speaker and a Yamaha M-65 driving the 3 12"/ch woofers using an input from the sub-out.


You can do that as long as you're not applying bass managment and on top of any passive crossovers that might be in the speakers themselves.

[Seth=L]

Having seen enough of Seth's posts, I bet he might do more research and would then realize he was incorrect (I mean technically/electrically) this time:):):).
Funny you said that, because I have no clue on how to research this exactly. I don't think that doing a google search for "receivers and bi-wiring" is going to give me the results I am looking for. I would like to add I have no electrical engineering background, so mistakes should be expected from me.:D

I made those posts assuming that the OP would not be using active x-overs. What was it I missed, impedance?:confused:

[mtrycrafts]

Funny you said that, because I have no clue on how to research this exactly. I don't think that doing a google search for "receivers and bi-wiring" is going to give me the results I am looking for. I would like to add I have no electrical engineering background, so mistakes should be expected from me.:D

I made those posts assuming that the OP would not be using active x-overs. What was it I missed, impedance?:confused:

Electrically speaking, nothing audible mind you, there is something going on, what Jneutron called the 2ab current product in the single wire,
Power= I^2R; P=(a+b)^2 R; (a+b)^2 is a^2+2ab+b^2.

If you want more, ask him:D or read his explanation message someplace in the archives:D

[PENG]

I made those posts assuming that the OP would not be using active x-overs. What was it I missed, impedance?:confused:

Its mostly about your suggestion that any channel of a multichannel modular amp should be able to output the amp's full output (ok I assume you meant the multichannel total output) of the amplifier as though such amps are mainly power supply limited but not amp limited. That's what I took exception, no big deal.

[Seth=L]

Its mostly about your suggestion that any channel of a multichannel modular amp should be able to output the amp's full output (ok I assume you meant the multichannel total output) of the amplifier as though such amps are mainly power supply limited but not amp limited. That's what I took exception, no big deal.
I am all straightened out now, aside from the science and math (not my major, and can't say I will ever get the math and physics of all of it;))

[PENG]

Electrically speaking, nothing audible mind you, there is something going on, what Jneutron called the 2ab current product in the single wire,
Power= I^2R; P=(a+b)^2 R; (a+b)^2 is a^2+2ab+b^2.

If you want more, ask him:D or read his explanation message someplace in the archives:D

Thank you for mentioning the presumed dead horse, without actually bringing it back.

[mtrycrafts]

Thank you for mentioning the presumed dead horse, without actually bringing it back.

A Dead horse? In audio? LOL :D

[mtrycrafts]

...and can't say I will ever get the math and physics of all of it;))



We are not asking for all of it just some of it :D:D:D

[Seth=L]

We are not asking for all of it just some of it :D:D:D
You can't make me, at least if you don't know where I am.:D

[HTHOLIC]

Hey Marty, so you are saying to do the following:

Run bare wire to the woofer portion of the speakers and then have another short wire touch that wire that is going into the woofer section (+-).

Would it make a difference If I put it in the tweeter section first?

[mtrycrafts]

Hey Marty, so you are saying to do the following:

Run bare wire to the woofer portion of the speakers and then have another short wire touch that wire that is going into the woofer section (+-).

Would it make a difference If I put it in the tweeter section first?

Well, the wire and the short jumper is not totally bare, just where you need to make the connection at the terminals. Did you see that wonderful picture that was posted? I think it was seth-L
No, it doesn't matter where the wire from the amp goes first, the low end or the high end.

ps, let me see if this works :
http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t161/SethKL/gdsgfdgfdgfds.jpg

Or, another option is banana plugs. There is a banana plug that can be plugged into another banana plug, if you have the room in the back.

[HTHOLIC]

Ill see if my WBT binding posts - I can obtain a picture, I'll see if they are the same.

[Seth=L]

Well, the wire and the short jumper is not totally bare, just where you need to make the connection at the terminals. Did you see that wonderful picture that was posted? I think it was seth-L
No, it doesn't matter where the wire from the amp goes first, the low end or the high end.

ps, let me see if this works :
http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t161/SethKL/gdsgfdgfdgfds.jpg

Or, another option is banana plugs. There is a banana plug that can be plugged into another banana plug, if you have the room in the back.
This is become quite popular.:D

[mtrycrafts]

This is become quite popular.:D

Hey, you did a great job of it, so why wouldn't it be popular, especially around here:D
Thanks. Just need to remember the picture location and how it is inserted.;)

[HTHOLIC]

Are you using 2 wires or 1 wire?


The wire from the tweeter to the woofer connection connects
where?

Perhaps if you zoom in. My WBT is you put the wire in and then press down the knob. Its the WBT 0730 , http://www.wbtusa.com/pages/binding_posts.html

Are you just using a single wire that passes through both the tweeter and the woofer sockets?

Where does the short jumper attach , do the hole where you put the woofer (bottom sockets inside)?

When you screw down the WBT binding posts both the short jumper and the regular wire to the woofer socket should be covered right?

[mtrycrafts]

Are you using 2 wires or 1 wire?


The wire from the tweeter to the woofer connection connects
where?

Perhaps if you zoom in. My WBT is you put the wire in and then press down the knob. Its the WBT 0730 , http://www.wbtusa.com/pages/binding_posts.html

Are you just using a single wire that passes through both the tweeter and the woofer sockets?

Where does the short jumper attach , do the hole where you put the woofer (bottom sockets inside)?

When you screw down the WBT binding posts both the short jumper and the regular wire to the woofer socket should be covered right?

Why don't you do this with that terminal:

It will accept banana plugs. Place banana plugs on the speaker wire from the amp to the speakers.
Run the jumper wire, ends stripped about 3/8" and tighten them down in the hole provided, on both terminals, high and low.

Or, place two wires into one of the holes, the wire from the amp and the other end of the jumper, then tighten. The jumper can be a smaller thickness as it is about 2" only.

[Seth=L]

Are you using 2 wires or 1 wire?


The wire from the tweeter to the woofer connection connects
where?

Perhaps if you zoom in. My WBT is you put the wire in and then press down the knob. Its the WBT 0730 , http://www.wbtusa.com/pages/binding_posts.html

Are you just using a single wire that passes through both the tweeter and the woofer sockets?

Where does the short jumper attach , do the hole where you put the woofer (bottom sockets inside)?

When you screw down the WBT binding posts both the short jumper and the regular wire to the woofer socket should be covered right?
Are you asking me?

If you are indeed refering to the picture I made, there is one wire going from each binding post to the other to bridge the connection (Negative-negative and positive-positive)

[mtrycrafts]

Are you asking me?

If you are indeed refering to the picture I made, there is one wire going from each binding post to the other to bridge the connection (Negative-negative and positive-positive)

I think he wants to know if that wire is one continuous wire from the amp with the insulation stripped for one post but for that to happen, the insulated wire needs to pass through the hole in the terminal. If not possible, then you must have two individual sets of wires with the jumper being just a short section all by itself.
From the picture, it looks like the jumper is under the first barrel closes to the speaker box itself, then the wire from the amp in the usual hole, no?

[HTHOLIC]

So I can use one wire if I want to?

These are expensive speakers, I don't want to short the wire/fuse or anything.

If I one wire and pass it through the hole is that possible, oh then the insulation would have to be on the wire to avoid a short between the terminals. I see

My confusion results on the wire from the tweeter to the woofer, referred to you as the short jumper - where does that connect to, does it connect to the same hole as the woofer terminals?

I appreciate your patience in assisting me, I do not want to use binding posts right now, as I have decided on a permanent location yet.


http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/4972/rbhspeakerdo2.jpg

[mtrycrafts]

So I can use one wire if I want to?

These are expensive speakers, I don't want to short the wire/fuse or anything.

If I one wire and pass it through the hole is that possible, oh then the insulation would have to be on the wire to avoid a short between the terminals. I see

My confusion results on the wire from the tweeter to the woofer, referred to you as the short jumper - where does that connect to, does it connect to the same hole as the woofer terminals?

I appreciate your patience in assisting me, I do not want to use binding posts right now, as I have decided on a permanent location yet.


http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/4972/rbhspeakerdo2.jpg

I understand the confusion. Not to worry.

I bet the original jumper was a thin plate that was attached under a barrel on each post and on top of the red and white insulation spacers.

Not a problem though, we'll get there.

I don't know the size of those holes in the post, not the center hole as that is made for banana connectors, but the one you pointed out.
Now, if your wire with the insulation fits through it, you could carefully cut the insulation about 2" from the end and about the length that approximates the diameter of that binding post. Also, cut about the same amount off the ends, twist the strands, pass the wire through one of the red posts until your bare wire about 2" back is in the hole, tighten it down. Attach the stripped end 2" away to the same colored post into the hole.
Do the same to the white post and the other speaker. This way, no exposed wire can short but you have bare wire in the holes to tighten and make electrical contact.

Or, as an alternative, cut of 2" or wire, one for each post, 2 speakers, 4 such short wires. Strip off about 3/8" as I am guessing that diameter, from each end, unscrew the posts to expose the holes. attache one wire to each like colors. Buy 4 banana plugs of your choice. I think your link to the binding post shows a 4mm banana connector. Attach to the ends of your speaker cable from the amp, and plug the wire that came from the red terminal of the amp to one of the center holes with the red spacer, doesn't matter the upper or lower. Do the same with the other 3 wires being consistent to match the colors with the amp. If the amp has black and red, connect the reds together and the left over colors together. You are set.

[Seth=L]

If you would not object to using banana plugs you should have no problems. I would also think that you could order the straps from the same outfit you got the binding posts from. I would personally just put the wire in the small hole (after the binding post is raised to fit it in and then tightened so it doesn't come out) and use banana plug terminations for the connection to the amplifier. This simplifies things a great deal because you can leave the bridge wires in and disconnect the banana plug termination and move the speakers to where ever you would like. When I get home I will attempt to make a photo representation of what I mean. I will be home around 1:00 P.M. Central time.:)

[HTHOLIC]

Well, I did do something as marty said, and it appears to work, however it took me 3 Hours AND if I were to disconnect the speaker wire the wire may fall off.

Why, What i did was tighten the wire from the tweeter to the woofer while living some insulation in between,

The thing is threefold however


First, is that its hard to get between the posts to move your hand around and when I finally tightetn it , it took hours and so forth

Second, Well upon screwing down the binding post on the woofer (that is where the wire from the receiver goes in) -

The wire from the tweeter to the woofer is secured, but if I were to unscrew the wire the whole mess would start again,

Man I wish I could buy the plate jumpers. It is so much easier. I thank setl and marty- but looks can be deceiving,
I do not have a lot of room to work with, the speaker wire has to curve a bit.

This post is not over, as there is some issues, however , is there a diagram for the banana plugs and if I ever have to disconnect speaker wire would that be a problem?

hECK, i AM sometimes worried it may fall off as when I verified it did, the only thing keeping it together is the screwed down binding post along with the incoming wire from the amp of the receiver.

I hate This. No wonder why RBH got rid of the WBT's , wait did they really get rid of it for that reason or Im not sure?

[mtrycrafts]

Well, I did do something as marty said, and it appears to work, however it took me 3 Hours AND if I were to disconnect the speaker wire the wire may fall off.

Why, What i did was tighten the wire from the tweeter to the woofer while living some insulation in between,

The thing is threefold however


First, is that its hard to get between the posts to move your hand around and when I finally tightetn it , it took hours and so forth

Second, Well upon screwing down the binding post on the woofer (that is where the wire from the receiver goes in) -

The wire from the tweeter to the woofer is secured, but if I were to unscrew the wire the whole mess would start again,

Man I wish I could buy the plate jumpers. It is so much easier. I thank setl and marty- but looks can be deceiving,
I do not have a lot of room to work with, the speaker wire has to curve a bit.

This post is not over, as there is some issues, however , is there a diagram for the banana plugs and if I ever have to disconnect speaker wire would that be a problem?

hECK, i AM sometimes worried it may fall off as when I verified it did, the only thing keeping it together is the screwed down binding post along with the incoming wire from the amp of the receiver.

I hate This. No wonder why RBH got rid of the WBT's , wait did they really get rid of it for that reason or Im not sure?

If you use just a short piece from the tweet to the woof, that would be permanent, more or less, as I don't know why you would play with them or remove them.
Then if you use a banana plug on your speaker cable from the am, that can be removed without upsetting the jumper.
No, I don't have a picture of one handy.
Just make sure the size of the pin is the size of the hole in the WBT which I believe is 3.5mm, if memory is correct but it is at their web site. Then just take a visit to a Radio Shack and pick up a pair or two to play with. RS is not that expensive.

What kind of space issues you have behind the speaker that a banana plug may not be suitable? There is a banana plug out there where the wire is connected to the banana plug at right angles into its middle.