Power Conditioner for Projector & Sub-woofer

[SMM]

I'm planning to purchase a Panamax 5100EX for all of my electronics in the equipment rack. My problem is how do I get the projector and the sub, both of which are on the other side of the room, connected into the Panamax? One option is to run a long extension cord in the drop ceiling. Anyone have other suggestions, preferably ones the the local builing inspector will not object to. Thks!

[mtrycrafts]

I'm planning to purchase a Panamax 5100EX for all of my electronics in the equipment rack. My problem is how do I get the projector and the sub, both of which are on the other side of the room, connected into the Panamax? One option is to run a long extension cord in the drop ceiling. Anyone have other suggestions, preferably ones the the local builing inspector will not object to. Thks!


If you are in need of a surge protector, buy one and mount it by the projector. Don't see a real need for a conditioner.

[SMM]

If you are in need of a surge protector, buy one and mount it by the projector. Don't see a real need for a conditioner.

OK...what about the sub-woofer...does it benefit from the conditioner?

[Nick250]

OK...what about the sub-woofer...does it benefit from the conditioner?

There will some disagreement on this topic but I am of the opinion it will make no difference on any of your components unless there might be a click when the fridge cycled on or such. It will not improve your sound if that's what you are thinking. A good surge protector is all most of us need.

[SMM]

There will some disagreement on this topic but I am of the opinion it will make no difference on any of your components unless there might be a click when the fridge cycled on or such. It will not improve your sound if that's what you are thinking. A good surge protector is all most of us need.


What do you recommend for a "good" surge protector. I've read that many of them provide very little protection

[Srinivas]

I was in the same situation for my sub - I am using a separate sure protector now. I am planning on buying the Monster Cable MP SW 200 Subwoofer PowerCenter from Amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00006343N

[Nick250]

What do you recommend for a "good" surge protector. I've read that many of them provide very little protection

I have read the same thing. That being said, if I was in the market for a new surge protector I would get something like like this from Tripp-Lite.

http://www.newark.com/NewarkWebCommerce/newark/en_US/endecaSearch/partDetail.jsp?SKU=73J5467&N=0

[jaxvon]

If I were shopping for a power conditioner, I would get something that's overkill for my current load so I don't need a bigger one when I upgrade. I'd get either the HTPowerbar10 or HT10DBS. These carry a contiuous rating of 15 amps and 12 amps, respectively. This should be enough for most "sane" budgeted HT systems and have some room to grow. If you're running a Denon 5805, you may want to think about getting a 15 or 20 amp dedicated conditioner for the receiver alone!

[Johnd]

One option is to run a long extension cord in the drop ceiling. Anyone have other suggestions, preferably ones the the local builing inspector will not object to. Thks!

When building my ht, I considered this very thing. What I ended up doing was terminating both ends of the projector and sub circuits with outlets. Then you take a double male power cord from your filter (or conditioner) to supply filtered and/or conditioned power to your projector and sub. Just remember to so mark the feed sides of the respective outlets as such, because w/o a feed, it will never be powered (a cruel joke on the next homeowner). Cheers.

[SMM]

When building my ht, I considered this very thing. What I ended up doing was terminating both ends of the projector and sub circuits with outlets. Then you take a double male power cord from your filter (or conditioner) to supply filtered and/or conditioned power to your projector and sub. Just remember to so mark the feed sides of the respective outlets as such, because w/o a feed, it will never be powered (a cruel joke on the next homeowner). Cheers.


Do they sell double-male power cords, or did you have to make it?

[Johnd]

Do they sell double-male power cords, or did you have to make it?

Just make it. I never searched for a double male, but your phrase "did you have to make it?" infers some level of hardship. Get a good quality power cord ($3.00-$4.00), strip off the female end, and connect a good quality $2.00 male plug. Cheers.

[j_garcia]

You cannot use an extension cord with ANY plug strip or power conditioner - it says right in the documentation. You will need a second power strip or something like the Panamax Max2sub (http://www.powersystemsdirect.com/Panamax/Max_2_Sub_Surge_Protection_Subwoofer_M-2SUB_m2sub_366.php).

I have a 5100 and it made pretty much no difference for audio, but it did surprisingly make a noticable difference with my display.

[Johnd]

You cannot use an extension cord with ANY plug strip or power conditioner - it says right in the documentation. You will need a second power strip or something like the Panamax Max2sub (http://www.powersystemsdirect.com/Panamax/Max_2_Sub_Surge_Protection_Subwoofer_M-2SUB_m2sub_366.php).

I have a 5100 and it made pretty much no difference for audio, but it did surprisingly make a noticable difference with my display.

My hts 5000 manual says no such thing, at least at first glance. In any event, that disclaimer could be for only two reasons (that I can think of);
1) an extension cord would potentially create a trip hazard, injuring the person, as well as the equipment; and,
2) voltage drop.

Regardless, that's good advice j_garcia to recommend against an extension cord run through a dropped ceiling, or any other manner for installed products. Voltage drop concern in my install is nil as I used 12awg. I think the permanently wired solution for projectors is not only novel, but money saving (no need for a second filter or conditioner). Cheers.

[Bryce_H]

When I built my dedicated hometheater in the basement I used a panamax in-wall unit for the each sub and an in-wall TL for the projector (allows power to be run through my 5510 and maintains warrenty).

[Johnd]

and maintains warrenty
That's another good solution, Bryce. The option I suggested does as well. Cheers.

[j_garcia]

My hts 5000 manual says no such thing, at least at first glance. In any event, that disclaimer could be for only two reasons (that I can think of);
1) an extension cord would potentially create a trip hazard, injuring the person, as well as the equipment; and,
2) voltage drop.

Regardless, that's good advice j_garcia to recommend against an extension cord run through a dropped ceiling, or any other manner for installed products. Voltage drop concern in my install is nil as I used 12awg. I think the permanently wired solution for projectors is not only novel, but money saving (no need for a second filter or conditioner). Cheers.

Basically, using an extension cord to the unit voids the unit's warranty (unless you use theirs, which is correctly sized and a specific length). Using one FROM it that is not correctly rated (correct size, length, etc....) for the draw on the other end voids the protection warranty for any connected equipment but not for the unit itself.

[Johnd]

Basically, using an extension cord to the unit voids the unit's warranty (unless you use theirs, which is correctly sized and a specific length). Using one FROM it that is not correctly rated (correct size, length, etc....) for the draw on the other end voids the protection warranty for any connected equipment but not for the unit itself.

Agreed and understood. Perhaps I wasn't clear, but I never suggested an extension cord...I'm just relating an extension cord to my solution of in-wall wiring with 12 gauge romex. Your point is well made...never use an extension cord, unless it is appropriate size and gauge, and you refuse to install an appropriately located outlet where it needs to be.

[Fatman513]

Smarthome.com has a duplex surge suppression receptacle that works well for subs and PJs. That's what I went with.

http://www.smarthome.com/865131.HTML