TV or Projector

[kpierce]

I recently moved into a house with a media room, and I am try to figure out if I should get an overhead projector or just a HDTV bigscreen.

Has anyone put together some pro's and con's on each. The main con I am thinking of right now is the cost of replacing bulbs in a projector. Does this get expensive? I figure with the entire family using it, it might be running 4-5 hours a day. I don't know what this will cost me in the long run for a projector.

My cost range is going to be about $1000 for a projector or $1500 for a HDTV.

Any advise on this is greatly appreciated.

thanks

[brian32672]

Well typical projectors nowadays, will run for appx 3000+ hours. So 4-5 hours a day would be like 3 1/2 (EDIT:: 2 1/2 to 3 years) years between bulb replacements. The 1K budget is kinda small, so these would be the hours you are looking at. Some other more expensive projectors range from 4,000 / 5,000 / 8,000 hours. So in your case, a 5k hour would only need to be changed once in its lifetime (original bulb 5K & 1 replacement 5K = 10,000 hours) At least this is in theory, because there could be the chance of premature bulb.

[brian32672]

Please also know, that a rear projection DLP HDTV will also need a bulb change. But these sets are usually in the 8,000 hour range.

[BMXTRIX]

You are looking at a very inexpensive set no matter which way you are going really with that budget.

Let's up it to an entry level HD front projector - the Panny AE-700U for about $2K
Let's take a quick look at a comparison right now at Best Buy:
The Panasonic PT-44LCX65 at about $2,200.00

The front projection system requires a near total dark room. Since you said this was a media room I am guessing that you will able to completely eliminate light at almost any time you want to so that should not be an issue.

So, for about the same money as a 44" rear projection setup, you can product a 100" or so image with the same resolution. The rear projection unit looks like it offers more inputs, but this is almost a non-issue if you are using a surround A/V receiver which will handle switching for you.

In my experience, bulb life is always a load of BS. If manufacturers had bulbs that would last for 5,000 hours, they would warranty them for that long. The don't have those bulbs in either rear projection sets or front projection sets so expect about a year per bulb on front projection up to two years and about 2 years on rear projection up to 3 years.

Unless you go wtih a rear projection CRT, in which case you will have to read the manual, learn about convergience, and are willing to live with a very large box in the room.

The bulbs on most front projectors are a little pricier as well when compared to rear projection DLP/LCD units.

Which is better?

Well, if all you care about is how much cash you will be laying into things, then I would go with a CRT rear projection setup. It is very traditional, and is not very cool by today's standards, but rear CRT offers excellent value for your money and can provide an excellent image. Do not confuse rear projection CRT with rear projection LCD, DLP, or LCoS (HD-ILA). Those are all bulb based technologies that will require new bulbs at times not as much value for your dollar in my opinion.

Front projection would be the next way to go as you can get non-HD home theater projectors for around $1,000 in the Optoma H31 or the InFocus SP4805. The $2K AE-700 is a good step up for entry level 720p viewing. The screen size and stunning appearance of the image is really amazing, but the projector will require new lamps and I wouldn't hold my breath on any manufacturer published spec on bulb life, though I know some people do outlast the specs - you may or may not.

Rear projection non-crt units are what I would go with in my family room or some other non-light controlled room of my home if I didn't want to splurge for a plasma. They are a bit more affordable than flat panel displays and don't intrude as much in the room. Most of all they are bright which helps combat ambient light in the room. Still have bulbs to replace with them though.

[kpierce]

Thanks for all the great help. So if I go with the InFocus SP4805. What other equipment would I need to consider to get an HDTV picture projected with sound onto a wall?

Surround sound system (reciever and speakers) and an HDTV Cable Converter Box, is there anything else I would need?

I am new and just learning how this all fits together.

thanks
kendall

[jaxvon]

You've got some of the equipment, but don't forget about a DVD player, cabling, acoustical treatment (if you have the budget, you should), a screen, and if you don't already have it, furniture.

It's an expensive hobby, but it can be very rewarding. So what kind of budget were you looking at for the rest of your stuff?

[kpierce]

Thank... I will get a DVD player and already have a couch!

I have one more question, atleast for now. :)

My question is around wiring. My media room is pre-wired for overhead, surround sound, etc.

I have the 5 plates in the wall where the speakers go and I understand that part.

In the ceiling I have two pair of Coax cables in a junction box. I also have a small TV already running in the room. I told the cable guy to hook up the outlet in the call. I pulled the plate from that outlet and it has two pair of Coax cables as well.

I have comcast and he told me they only utilize the single line now so only one of the coax cables it connected to the face plate.

My question is how does all this fit together?

I understand the cable single comes into that wall plate, I would hook a HDTV Cable box to the 'hot' coax. Is the other coax to run the signal from the cable box to the projector? That would only make sense, but I would like to verify. Basically is this wire just from the wall outlet to the ceiling?

I guess I pretty much just answered my own question, but why are the two pair of Coax, seems like there should only be one. Is the other incase I wanted to hook a cable box, tuning into the ceiling? That would be the only logical answer...

Finally, How can I figure out in the ceiling which wire is carrying the video signal? Just trial and error?


thanks
kendall

[Rock&Roll Ninja]

I vote for projector.

A mediocre 110" picture easily wins over a great 34" picture anyday in my book.

[Sleestack]

I have the same issue on a slightly different budget.

I would prefer not using a projector. What is the largest LCD or plasma flat panel TV I could get if I am willing to spend up to $20K?

[jaxvon]

Your budgets always make me smile sleestack. But I'm sorry, I have nothing to add. I'll try to research tomorrow while I'm at work, when I have some spare time.

[Rock&Roll Ninja]

What is the largest LCD or plasma flat panel TV I could get if I am willing to spend up to $20K?

Largest LCD: Sony Qualia 71"

Largest Plasma: Pioneer 61"

[Spiffyfast]

I'll try to research tomorrow while I'm at work, when I have some spare time.

LOL now thats what I call a good job, hmm....guess where I'm at right now too.... :)

[BMXTRIX]

kpierce: The second line is likely from outside, just like the cable feed is. It just isn't connected to anything outside. This is likely used if you wanted a satellite or antenna feed into your home at the equipment location.

Wiring for your projector...
From the equipment location:
Minimum: 1 component cable (3 75 ohm cables)
1 composite cable (?)
1 HDMI cable

Full use:
1 component cable
1 s-video cable
1 composite video cable
1 HDMI cable
1 piece of CAT-5 for future control/screen trigger use
1 VGA cable for future PC hook up use.

This either needs to be run through the ceiling, or can be run along the ceiling and covered somehow.

You also need POWER to the ceiling where the projector will be mounted.

[Mark Duncan]

I have the same issue on a slightly different budget.

I would prefer not using a projector. What is the largest LCD or plasma flat panel TV I could get if I am willing to spend up to $20K?

I believe the largest I've seen so far is a NEC 84" plasma for about 13,000.

[Sleestack]

71" LG LCD = $75K!!!! That is a bit too much. Can I get a good projector in the $10K - $15K range?

[JimSt]

71" LG LCD = $75K!!!! That is a bit too much. Can I get a good projector in the $10K - $15K range?

At that price, I'd be looking at the mid range Runco projectors. Something like the 1000. I forget which, but one of the Runco's includes an ISCO 3 anamorphic lens. Which can take the machine from 16:9 to 2.35:1.

Of course, you can do that with less expensive machines too. There are at least three companies doing anamorphic projector lenses these days, Prismasonic, ISCO and Panamorph.

To me the only way to come close to the theater experience at home is with a projector. 2.35:1 brings it a big step closer.

[Sleestack]

At that price, I'd be looking at the mid range Runco projectors. Something like the 1000. I forget which, but one of the Runco's includes an ISCO 3 anamorphic lens. Which can take the machine from 16:9 to 2.35:1.

Of course, you can do that with less expensive machines too. There are at least three companies doing anamorphic projector lenses these days, Prismasonic, ISCO and Panamorph.

To me the only way to come close to the theater experience at home is with a projector. 2.35:1 brings it a big step closer.


Thanks. What are the significant price points for projectors. How much do I need to spend to get a good projector?

[JimSt]

Thanks. What are the significant price points for projectors. How much do I need to spend to get a good projector?

Mostly it depends on how large an image you want to throw and how bright you need it to be. There are three technologies, DLP, LCD and CRT. Each of them has their pluses and minuses. For my room, DLP was the only way to go because I have 7' ceilings, wanted a big screen and need to sit within 15' of the screen. LCD's tend to be brighter but show a lot more screen door effect up close. CRT's are older technology and physically huge...but project gorgeous images. Below $2000, you're primarily looking at business projectors. There's just a whole world of features and quality levels above.

I'm running a Mitsubishi hc900u, projecting onto a 104" Carada 2.35:1 screen. Total cost, under 3k. I'll shortly be adding an anamorphic lens (as soon as the Prismasonic remote lens becomes available) so that I don't have to manually zoom (plus waste 2/3 of the image). I'm pretty happy with the results this machine provides. Absolutely beautiful blacks and a wonderfully bright image. I'd stack it against any projection television. It's biggest drawback is washing out quikly when light is introduced to the room, and it's a bit noisy.

Still, this machine is merely a toy compared to some of the more elaborate machines out there.

[BMXTRIX]

Projection major price points:
$1,000 = 853x480 resolution entry level DLP. InFocus SP4805 or Optoma H31. Great home theater projectors on a budget

$2,000 = 1280x720 entry level LCD projectors. Panasonic AE-700 and Sanyo Z3. Perhaps the most popular projectors as these offer the most affordable 'true-hd' resolution to the masses.

$3,000 = 1280x720 entry level DLP projectors. A host of companies are releasing in this range and all have advantages and disadvantages. Optical lens shift is almost never an option at this price, but they usually use the same DLP chip found on $10K+ projectors.

About $10,000-$15,000(ish): Good home theater DLP projectors. These projectors offer better everything over their cheaper counterparts. Better build, better lenses, better image processing, more connections, optical lens shift, etc.

About $20K+ - Three chip DLP projectors (and LCoS). Better colors, better image clarity. Some, like the Sony Qualia (LCoS) offer 1920x1080 resolution instead of 1280x720 resolution. But, some of these projectors come with high maintenance costs. Expensive (ridiculous!) bulbs, and may be noisy, requiring a separate projection room.

DO NOT BUY RUNCO!

I am pretty much dedicating my life to steering people clear of Runco International that repackages other people's projectors and puts their label on it. They seem to have no clue how to engineer a reliable product. So, you end up paying 50% more, and the projector looks maybe 2% better. But, the projector is almost guaranteed to fail once a month and need to go in for service. When questioned about this directly, Runco's president became very flumoxed and irritated. My experience is over a 90% failure rate of Runco product. When compared to under 5% for other manufacturers.

[Sleestack]

Any thoughts on the Infocus 7210, Sharp XVZ12000 or the Sony VPLFX51?

They all seem to be in about the same price range. I don't need something great for now, just something that is considered very good.

[brian32672]

The 7210 does look nice, also just above that price range is the Optoma H79
Do not look at the MSRP, you can always get it cheaper than that.
Here is the H79
http://www.projectorcentral.com/Optoma-H79.htm

[BMXTRIX]

I would strongly consider the H79 in the under $10K price category and then include the Z12000 in there as well.

More likely, since I really can put my projector exactly where I want it and am not locked into needing a heavily adjustable projector, I would get something more along the lines of the Sharp Z2000 which uses most of the same level of quality and technology as the Z12000 - except it is closer to $3,000 or so. Likewise, the InFocus SP7205 is the way I would be looking over the 7210. At well under $5,000.00 it's a great way to go.